i have a couple of broken arrowheads that would be so cool restored any suggestions ??
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Restoration is completely a personal choice. Some collectors like it, some don't It's not a bad or good thing to do. If you want something restored simply for display, and to show what the artifact originally looked like, then that's entirely up to you. On the market side of it, restoration doesn't increase the value of an artifact. Actually, in most cases, it could detract from the value. Most collectors are leaning more toward having the artifact the way it was found. For me, I think restoration is ok for display purposes, but I only go with small tip dings, or maybe an ear if it's a fluted point. Often, the cost of restoration is way above what the artifact is worth to begin with. I can't refer you to any one specifically, I don't know who does restoration these days. Except for my buddy Keith. He started doing it about a year ago, and he does an excellent job.Last edited by pkfrey; 02-20-2017, 12:06 PM.
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Like Paul says, it's a personal choice. If you're a perfectionist, professional restoration is the way to go. Personally, I'm not reselling but collecting for my own satisfaction. Not long ago I found half a blade on the logging road. They had just finished loading a log truck and had dozed the area over to smooth the landing. The break on the blade was recent so I started a pattern search trying to find the other half. Luckily, about 9 feet away, I found the bottom part. In this case I wanted it back as a whole blade for my display case so I super glued it back together. You can see the break but you get a much better idea of what the whole blade looked like after it's back together.
I think it may be a Copena Classic that has been reworked. Anyway - you get the general idea. ...ChuckLast edited by Scorpion68; 02-20-2017, 12:18 PM.Pickett/Fentress County, Tn - Any day on this side of the grass is a good day. -Chuck-
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Chuck, Here's a Redstone of similar material. The base is restored from my fingers on down.( 2nd. photo ). I just keep around to show the quality restoration my buddy is doing. On this translucent, or opaque material, he uses dental porcelain. And then shapes the point, and grinds the
flake scars using a Dremel tool.
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Weres that Redstone from? Say the lithics is somewhat translucent? I ask because it really reminds me of the Knox Grey we see around here frequently, which is translucent at the thinner edges... But I could also see it being a highly patinated segment of the grayer portion of Hornstone ... Killer restore, and good example of the perfect kind of candidate to have it done on imo!
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That was a piece that was in a box of mostly broken and field grade items, and I could only say from the types and materials, it would be a Ky/Tn. point. But exactly where I don't know. There was enough of the tip to show it was a Redstone, and I picked it out for my buddy to restore, so I would have an example of his restoration work. It's actually much better in person, and without a scope, it would pass as original. Because he used a coloring agent instead of paint, there aren't even any brush strokes on it.
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Chuck, The problem is though, I don't think you can buy the powder you need at your local stores. You need to have a dentist friend who will give you some to use. Or, you could melt your Grandma's dentures!! It's a special powder, and when mixed with water, molded, and then fired on low heat in an oven, it comes out exactly like translucent flint. It even has a hardness of 7, the same as quartz related flints and chert. It's some what time consuming, but works great on materials like obsidian, agate, this blue/gray flint, etc. You just add a coloring agent to it, and with a little practice, the point comes out perfect. Some of these you need a scope to tell it's restored!
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Paul - would the oven heat affect the original chert? I know sometimes that heating it changes its color.
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Chuck, No, the heat is kept pretty low, around 500 degrees. Or you can wrap a piece of aluminum foil around the original part to keep it from getting extremely hot and changing color. I've never watched him restore using this method, but how ever he does it, it works really well. I think it's very time consuming, and only works using translucent flints. Everything else he uses Bondo.
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